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The down and dirty of this job is to
verify if the engine and drive shaft are in alignment. Before you start this job as a new
mechanic or Do-it- yourselfer, I need to warn you that as simple as it looks, I've seen
too many of these done incorrectly and the out come is an engine pull. So, if your ready
to go ......
Warning: The tool that is used can be rented from
some tool rental places but be careful because there are now two tools on the market. The
new style tool will work on the older motors but the old style tool will not align new
style motors properly. See tool bulletin.
The first step is to get ready to remove the drive by putting the unit in forward gear,
(reverse gear for counter rotation) and removing the trim pin and nuts that connect the
drive to the trim system. Then either support the drive from above or place blocks under
the sterndrive so that the u-joint driveshaft is inline with the crankshaft of the motor
and not cocked up or down, or side to side. Place 3ft. long 2x6 boards on the ground so
you can slide the drive off and on without much lifting. At this point you need to:
Tip #1) Get the manual and do it like they tell you to do it.
Tip #2) Always have someone check it who has done it before.
Tip #3) Look carefully at the spline and the coupler for wear.
If the grease dried up and the spline ran dry, have a professional look at it to see
if you should reassemble. Usually the coupler is the first to wear when they run dry. If
the spline teeth in the coupler look "pointy" or half of the spline tooth is
worn away, replace the coupler.
Tip#31/2) If you have good alignment but the couple has dry teeth upon
inspection, tap the engine over 180o,
to see if the coupler is warped and or warbling and then recheck the alignment. If the
alignment has changed after cranking the motor 180o, the coupler is shot.
Tip #4) Always use M/C Spline grease and no other product on the
splines.
Tip #5) This is a good time to hand grease the gimbal bearing. Spin it with
your fingers, before you grease it. If it feels rough or the cage feels loose,
replace it , don't waste your time greasing it. ( the same for the U-joints) If all is
well spin the bearing while greasing to fill more completely.
Note: Do not use spline grease in the gimbal
or u-joint bearings.
*Are there signs of water and or rust in the bellows? If so fix that problem ,
before reassembly.
*Are there rust stains on or around the shift cable pocket? Look for and fix
that leak, before you need a new shift cable too. ( don't forget to check for a loose core
plug under the upper stern drive decal....)
* Do all your hoses behind the bell housing look good? Especially check the
water hose between the bell housing and the transom assembly for cracks.
*Clean the areas your going to glue the rubber seals and o-rings into, with a good cleaner
and install new seals and o-rings and let the glue dry thoroughly, before drive
installation. Always install new o-rings and gaskets. On sterndrives that require a
sterndrive gasket, NEVER install two sterndrive gaskets or glue them in place., in an
attempt to stop leaking. If you rip a sterndrive gasket while installing the drive, get a
new one.
Tip #6) Even if you didn't need to re-adjust the alignment, re-torque the
motor mounts. Check and reset the locking washers on the motor mounts when your done doing
the adjustment.
========= (Work in Progress) ========
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