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EFI SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING
Visual and physical inspection
The first step you should take is to make a careful visual and physical inspection of the
system. A problem may be corrected without further checks and time can be saved. Check for
vacuum hoses for correct routing, proper connections, pinches, kinks, cuts and splits.
Some hoses are difficult to see. Inspect wiring for proper connections, pinches, cuts,
burned or chafed spots or contact with sharp edges or hot exhaust manifolds. Check for air
leaks at the throttle body, plenum or intake manifold. Inspect ignition wires for
cracking, hardness and proper routing. Check that the proper size 12 Volt battery is being
used and that it is fully charged. The EFI electrical system is very Voltage sensitive. A
poorly charged battery can cause operating problems.
DIAGNOSTIC CIRCUIT CHECK PRELIMINARIES
If nothing is found during the visual and physical inspection you should now make a
Diagnostic Circuit Check. Note: Electronic components used in this system are often
designed to carry very low voltage and are very susceptible to damage caused by
electrostatic discharge. It is possible for less than 100 volts of static electricity to
cause damage to some electronic components. It takes as much as 4,000 volts for a person
to even feel the effects of a static discharge. Static charges are developed by friction
and induction. Sliding across a seat can build up a charge of as much as 25,0000 volts. It
is important to discharge yourself when testing and handling electronic components.
Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing any electronic component. Never
disconnect the battery while the engine is running. Make sure battery connections are
clean and connected solidly. When charging the battery, disconnect it from the boat's
electrical system.EFI DIAGNOSTIC CIRCUIT CHECK
To make the EFI Diagnostic Circuit Check turn the ignition switch off and hook up a Scan
Tool or a Marine Diagnostic Code Tool to the Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL)
Connector. You then follow the diagnostic chart in the service manual. This test sequence
will let you know if the onboard diagnostics are working. If they aren't you will be
directed to a test sequence to find the problem. If the on-board diagnostics are working
you will continue through the test chart to find if any "trouble codes" are
stored in the Electronic Control Module's (ECM) memory. The test tool will flash a code
"12" three times after being switched to the "service" mode. If any
"trouble codes" are present they will flash next for three times. If more than
one "trouble code" is stored in the ECM memory the codes will be output tom the
lowest to the highest-- each one flashing three times. After any "trouble codes"
have flashed, a code'l2" will flash again, for three times, to let you know all codes
have been displayed. If "trouble codes" are present you should refer to the
proper ("Non-Scan" or"Scan") code chart, starting with the lowest code
first, to diagnose the cause of the problem. If "trouble codes" are not present
you should refer to the "Troubleshooting" section in the service manual for poor
running engine conditions and items to check to isolate the problem. A scan tool may also
be used to check for an intermittent problem while the engine is running. If no problem is
found after working through the "troubleshooting" section, an out-of-range
sensor may be suspected. To identify a sensor which is out of range, unplug it while the
running the engine. After approximately two minutes, the diagnostic code for that sensor
will set, illuminate the "Check Engine" light, and replace the sensed value with
a default value. If at that point a noticeable performance increase is observed, the
non-scan code chart for that particular sensor should be followed to correct the problem. |
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