This special Snap-On off-set wrench set is a mandatory part of anyone's tool box if you do a lot of engine alignment work.
The 1 1/16" and the 1 1/8" wrench fit most forward motor mount nuts used on V6 and V8 installations. The design lets you get in between the mount and the stringer, motor cover, or deck that restricts access and rotation of the nut with regular wrenches. They are not cheap, but time is money, too.

The old wing style petcock has come in many forms over the years. And rarely did they ever install them in the engine where any normal person could get at them, to drain the engine. This 9/16" socket, modified with slits, made it easier to loosen these valves in those hard to reach spots. Used with a palm ratchet or with a short extension, they'll pop loose and you'll find yourself  less aggravated by the end of the day.

There is this "jumbo" tap and die set, at MerCruiser, that installs those threads in the lower gearcase housings for the upper and lower retaining rings. The threads need to be cleaned before reassembly, And, most can't afford the milling machine that inserted those threads, and a wire brush only removes the loose corrosion on the surface. So, I found this hand held thread cleaner set, that does the perfect job. It comes with a full set of metric and standard size thread scrapers and works on large inside and outside thread repairs.  Available from most major tool suppliers, this tool is a must have, before doing any gearcase re-building.

The lowly jumper wire. It's plight is simple. It's so basic, that it is often over looked. Have one in your glove box, one in your tool box, one in your boat tool kit.  Why? You can test a gauge, start an engine without a key, test the ground on trailer lights, temporarily join two pieces of wire for testing, hold your work order from blowing away... to name but a few of the ideas you'll come up with, if, you have one with you when you need one. Better yet, keep several on hand....

With this 12 volt test light , you'll never prick your finger again trying to check for voltage. It's built in wire holder gives you a perfect insulation holder. It also has a rounded tip probe. The self powered light in the end of the tester lights up those dark places, like under a dash board. It reads in increments from 3 -18 volts and it prevents you from taking a false re-verse polarity reading.

This test light, lights and beeps. It has no ground wire because it senses ground through your body. Again, it is polarity sensitive and it works great in those hard to reach places where a regular ground connection my not be accessible easily or a grounding wire would only be in the way. And don't forget checking marker lights on your boat trailer, you won't have to scratch the paint on the trailer, trying to check for positive power to the marker.

This GM distributor has the cam gear, removed, so that it can be used to pre-prime and pressurize the oiling system on  a GM engine before restart, after extended storage or rebuild. 
There is an easier way
The lube pressure tank, pictured, has an adapter on it that has the thread of an oil sender. Simply remove the oil sender, from the engine, and thread the fitting, from the pressure tank, into the block. Fill the pressure tank with the correct oil, pressurize it, and let'er rip. No fuss no muss, your engine is pre-lubed. And if you thought about it, you filled the pressure tank with the exact amount of oil required by the motor. The good thing is that it works on any 4 cycle motor including Diesel.

And speaking of oil... isn't it time that everyone reduce your oil spillage into the bilge areas? This cup fits onto the oil filter and catches any drips before they get into the bilge water. It comes in three sizes but I find myself using the 1/2 qt. size on both the 1/2 qt. and the 1 qt. size filters in most cases. There's also one for the V6 type filter.
Tip: Keep one in your garage at home, you'll stay cleaner while your changing your car's oil n filter.
Note: The company that made these is out of business... so... please use oil-absorbent drip pads under the engine until I can find a good replacement idea. :~] 
I have used the large zip-lock plastic bags for situations where I had to roll the oil filter forward in the bilge under the engine to get it out...

This palm size air grinder is inexpensive and cost effective. The 3M disk adapter with thread-in inserts is sold separately as a kit. The kit has 1",2", and 3" adapters with both sandpaper and fibrous type grinding discs that thread onto the adapter.
To get old gaskets off, this air scraper makes  the toughest gaskets seem like Jell-O... From exhaust manifolds to oil pan gaskets, you'll never struggle with a gasket scraper and chemicals again.
Warning: Never use this kind of equipment on aluminum parts, stick with the chemical removers or be very, very, cautious....

For you guys who own or work on the Older OMC Cobra or the current Volvo models, this 5/8" socket with built in swivel should be in the top of your box. It doesn't scratch the paint and it gives a more accurate torque when used with your extension and torque wrench... You do torque your sterndrives back on, don't you? Anyway, buy the whole set, you'll be glad you did, someday.

The ole clamp-on amperage draw tester is a staple of the industry but I thought I'd mention it because of it's many uses. Finding the load test of a starter, trim-n-tilt motor, hydraulic hatch motor, trim tab pump, trolling motor, windshield wipers, refrigerator, toilet pump, macerator, jumbo stereo systems, etc.... And you don't have to disconnect a thing to test it.

This battery load tester not only tests battery output, under load, but will do the same for an alternator output, under load. It has two basic alternator test's with idiot light response. Generally if it passes this quickie set of tests it's probably a good alternator.

When's the last time you had to do any wood working? You probably had this self counter-sink drill set out, for the job. They are inexpensive, pretty durable, and comes in the basic sizes we all use every day. With quick change bits from screw runner to drill, no more need for two screw guns strapped to your waist. But have you been using it to counter sink your stainless screws into your fiberglass panel installation work? Especially fiberglass liner work, it gives a nice "stub-your-toe" free surface, which a barefoot boater will greatly appreciate. Yea., the bits get dull quickly, and have to be sharpened or replaced, but that's why they pay us the big bucks...

Speaking of Installation work.. This carpenters angle with a string attached is a great way to verify hull dead-rise when installing thru-hull transducers and a lot less expensive than the commercially made device. You know the exact degree of deadrise at the point of entry.  (Be sure the boat is level, first.) Or just check both sides and do the math to correct for unevenness.

This inline hacksaw is the answer for those times when a stainless nut seizes and you can't get at the blind side to break off the nut. The blade can get into tight places where regular hacksaws can't. I've even bent the hacksaw blade to a 90o angle at the tip, to cut up under dash boards, and behind panels.

This pocket size kV tester really works. This will never be any replacement for the full size engine analyzer, but it's great for day to day usage, during tune-ups in the field or just some afternoon lake testing. It shows conventional and Inverted wave form output, so it work's on modern car engines as well.

When your in and out of boats in a marina all day long, the last thing you want is to fight somebody's old canvas snaps when re-covering the customer's boat. This canvas snap tool grabs the snap itself to help in stretching the canvas back into place. This tool never made me any money, but it sure has saved me some by reducing aggravation and damage to old canvas.

R&R'ing sterndrive engines can get to be a messy job. The biggest culprit is the power steering fluid. This plug set, plugs the fittings on the transom and joins the hoses together, so you can reduce the lose of Dexron. The double female union that ties the hose ends together also lets you run the engine with the power-steering actuator out of the system. Great for when your stand Dyno-ing the completed engine, out of the boat, before installation.

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