"Ahh... there is nothing like the fresh smell of diesel fuel in the morning...."

  With the new offerings of both diesel inboard and diesel sterndrive by several of the top marine engine suppliers, we recommend a closer look at these choices when it's time to re-power your boat or yacht.

  Ether and Diesels...
"Never use ether  or starting fluid to start a diesel engine."

  If it won't start like it normally does, then look for the cause. If it has just been getting harder and harder to start, over a period of time... get a compression test.

  We received an email question concerning the use of ether to start a sluggish diesel. It is very dangerous to implement this procedure. Serious damage can and will occur, if implemented incorrectly. However, in an emergency there are other concerns that might tempt you to try desperate acts to try to get your diesel started and out of danger.

Notice: Electronically controlled diesel engines have special sensors that can/will be damaged and/or thrown out of calibration if subjected to unusual starting procedures, other than those listed in the owners manual.

  So, having said that, we'll tempt fate and give you the secret that could keep you off the rocks some day. First, make sure that the transmission is in neutral and that the engine "cranks freely" and is not hydro-locked. (see salvaging a drowned motor) Then, remove all panels that would be necessary to ventilate the engine room. Turn on any blowers and/or ventilation equipment that would aid in keeping the engine room well ventilated.
   If the engine has a cylinder compression relief valve, (usually a lever located next to the valve cover) open the valve, and have someone crank the engine. When the engine achieves maximum cranking speed, rapidly close the pressure relief valve and often this will start the engine. A low battery and/or cold conditions may need several attempts at this procedure.

Warning: Continued cranking of an engine attached to a  water lift muffler, can cause the muffler to fill with water and back-flow into the engine. (causing hydro-lock) Always shut off the water supply to an engine that won't start and open the valve as soon as it does start.

  Engines that are not equipped with a cylinder compression   pressure relief valve can be a little trickier. First, Follow the procedures listed above. Then find the air intake, for the engine, and block the air from entering the intake manifold. Use your hand, large rubber ball, and/or other item that would not be sucked into the engine when cranking. Have someone crank the engine and after several revolutions you will note that the rpm's will increase substantially. Remove the air intake restriction, quickly, and the engine will receive a burst of air that should force ignition.
  This procedure works on the basis that if the air is restricted from entering the cylinder, the engine cranks faster, because there is no compression taking place in the cylinder. (you have created an airless vacuum inside the intake manifold and cylinder) The burst of air that the engine receives after you remove the restriction is comparable to having a turbo-charger or ram-air device.
  If you don't notice a change in cranking speed with the restriction in place, either you haven't restricted the intake properly or you don't have compression taking place inside the cylinders in the first place.

Warning: Any flammable material in the bilge of a boat can destroy the boat and kill the occupants.

The  final desperate move... First, follow all procedures listed above. Then with someone cranking the engine, wait for the engine to obtain full cranking speed, then give the engine a 1/2 second blast of starting fluid directly into the intake manifold, and stand back. (I had an old timer tell me that his wife's hair spray worked the same as starting fluid, but that surely was a desperate move.) Never spray near or towards starters and/or other sources of ignition.

  At this point, if you haven't blown yourself up and/or bent a rod on the engine, then the motor should be running. If not, you have a major mechanical problem that needs to be corrected. Start paddling.

Start over and go look at some of our tips.

Note: Never try these procedures unless you are completely familiar with all safety and warnings published on this site and in your service manual.

Good luck and be careful...  

• Basics of a Turbo-Charger
• Universal Diesel cooling System
• Universal Diesel Injector timing.
• Universal Diesel Fuel timing
• Universal Diesel engine alignment.
• Universal Diesel Bleeding proceedures
• Universal Diesel Specifications: (gif format)

M12, M15, M18, M20, M25, M25XP,
M30, M35, M40, M50, 
Typical Wiring.

And for those history buffs out there, they have an interesting  time machine page that goes back to the very beginning.

Web Note: The "open in new window" feature, when you click on a hyperlink, is used extensively throughout the new Volvo web site.

Note: The links above, open in a new window.

Volvo quicklinks: 

Engine database and publication search. [Free owners manuals]

FAQ at Volvo Penta

Volvo Parts Information

Pleasure boat engines   [open in new window/tab]

 As mentioned earlier, diesel packages for the marine industry have become more available and worth your consideration. "Yanmar" engine company teamed up with Mercruiser, a while back, to offer a diesel sterndrive package that was to become the market leader in it's class. However, it may have been one of the best kept secrets at the same time. This company's small  one and two cylinder diesel engines are popular with many sailboat builders. 
Some specifications are available on the web site but, the site falls short, compared to their competitors. 
  Web warning: Yanmar's web site is graphic intensive and you should be prepared for long download times if your hooked to the internet at  28.8 or less.
 Note: The link above, opens in a new window.

Note: The links above, open in a new window.