Test wire gone astray...


Use information here as reference only. Year, model, and accessory changes could change the result.

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 I tried your  suggestion to check all wiring connections especially at the new switch.  I did not find any bad connections. I took the boat out the other day and ran  it with the jumper wire attached to the coil. The boat ran great for about an  hour, then it lost power again. I checked the coil and could not touch it  because it was so hot. I let the boat cool down for about an hour and it ran  great again. When I got home, I decided to go back to NAPA and replace the  coil. After looking in their books, they show a coil for a Mercruiser 485  that requires an external resistor. I bought a new coil and a resistor. I  came home and tried to find the resistor, but I had no luck. I pulled out the  wiring diagram that came with the boat and it does not show an external  resistor. It does show a resistor wire to the choke, from the coil though. I  checked the coil that I had replaced a couple of years ago and it says right  on it "For use with external resistor" What do you think?? Could the wrong  coil have caused so much problems?? Do you know if the 485 requires a  external resistor?? If so where would I find mine?? Thanks again for your   continued help, I couldn't do it without you!!!

Our response:

In the future... the jumper wire test is exactly that... a test. If run continuously, the coil will over heat... as you found out.

This and most small Mercruiser engines of similar type have a special wire built into the engine's wiring loom. This "resistor wire" maintains a reduced voltage to the coil, while the engine is running. The reduced voltage helps reduce electrical requirements of the ignition, extends the life of the points and condenser, and helps keep the temperature of the coil low.

You have the correct coil. It should be marked " For use with external resistor". It sounds like you bought an external ballast resistor, which is often used in place of the resistor wire. You should not need this in addition to the resistor wire.

What you found, from the jumper wire test, is that by artificially increasing available voltage to the coil; your engine ran better. This means that the engine's ignition system is not working correctly, normally.

At this point, try the new coil and see if it works properly. If not you will have to continue troubleshooting to find out why the ignition system is producing low spark.

Possible causes:

* Low battery power to the coil.

- resistor wire is faulty

- poor ground and/or positive connections between the battery and engine.

- Alternator isn't working correctly and/or grounded properly

- key switch and/or wiring loom has excessive resistance.

* Wrong/Bad coil

- coil case not grounded properly

* Wrong/faulty points and/or condenser

- incorrect dwell and/or timing

- engine oil entering distributor

* Wrong/bad sparkplugs

- incorrect gap

* Bad distributor cap and/or wires

* Bad/wrong rotor

- rotor mismatched to cap

Hope this helps...

***  Not quite the end of this story. Stay tuned. ***

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